Thus happened my first ever chef’s
omakase sushi meal, back here, in Shira Nui one year later. A meal not with Carolyn, but with Superfly, and no bento boxes or chawanmushi’s…. just pure sushis. Giving a bit of background, filmophile Superfly asked me along to watch two Melbourne International Film Festival selects,
El Bulli and
Jiro Dreams of Sushi. While El Bulli had too much raw noise and footage for my liking, I was actually quite mesmerised by Jiro’s story and perseverance in sushi making. I loved watching his fingers dance so rhythmically as he continually strives to construct the perfect piece of sushi. There’s so much beauty and faith in repetition.
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Jiro’s life suddenly created a sushi obsession in me. And it’s hard to find an outlet for that, because I feel there is a bit of a sushi black-hole in Melbourne. Off the top of my head I can only think of Kenzan, Yu-u, Komeyui and Hanabishi as potentially good places, but Shira Nui stands as the age-old top contender for a quality sushi meal. I convinced Superfly to come ride the sushi war path with me, so there we were in Glen Waverley on a friday night.
Star of the show here is head chef Hiro Nishikura (left). But most of our sushi that night was prepared by the sous chef (right).
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For $85-90, you get 9 pairs of sushi each. And because it’s a chef’s omakase, he chooses what you get to eat. Everything is personally decided, made and served right in front of you, with a smile and deeply reverent suggestion about whether it should be eaten with or without soy sauce.
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One thing Superfly pointed out to me, with better quality sushis, the meat to rice ratio is much higher. I’m used to cheapo sushis where a small quantity of fish is mixed with vegetables and surrounded by rice and nori, or a small piece of sashimi sits evenly atop a biggish block of rice. But here, the pieces of sashimi and meat practically engulfs token dabs of sushi rice smaller than the size of my thumb. The cuts of fish are richer and oilier as well.
Dining with Superfly can sometimes be a little unsettling. He can come across as someone who’s hard to impress when it comes to food. I’m used to eating with people who’d give me familiar cues and reactions to food, like “mm..mmmm”, or “it’s o-kay” or “YUM!!”, or “meh”. But I find Superfly’s reactions, or lack thereof, quite unfamiliar, almost cerebral… and a little disconcerting. Maybe it’s just cultural.
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All that said, I enjoyed my meal with M-sky. Especially after he started on his second beer, ha ha! To sum up this meal, for the most part, I can’t fault the freshness of the food and how well it’s prepared and served. It was good quality sushi tastily made.
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However, I have to admit that the unctuous richness of most of the cuts of fish and meat crept up on me, and mid-way, I was kinda hoping for lighter and more refreshing offerings to cut the oils. But in fact, they got oilier. The sushis were good, in fact some bordered on being excellent. But somehow, I also felt that it wasn’t as interesting and amazing as I’d expected. Also, the choice and flow of dishes did not resonate as seamlessly and intuitively with me. So it was good, and also not good. Very odd!
We started with something very fresh and zesty, the blue eye w/ yellow caviar. There was a lemony twist to it. It’s cute how the sous chef would serve almost every dish with a respectful Japanese accent and a bold announcement of “no soy sauce!”. Meaning, you’re not supposed to have that piece of sushi with soy sauce.
I’ll have to admit the pan-fried salmon(no soy sauce), so nicely fastened against the daub of rice, was absolutely delish! Marinated and seared perfectly, with still raw undersides that’s cushiony soft.
I was a little less keen on the salmon roe sushi. The roe had a curious marinade in it. But more importantly, I didn’t take to the roe being served chilled at refrigerator temperature.
The BBQ beef came out beautifully marinated, amazingly soft, with a wonderful charred flavour. Very nice.
I forgot to take a picture of the next sushi pair!! Haha, blogger fail. One piece was a bouncy, springy clam sushi, raw clam meat being a texture I’m unused to but it was fresh. And the other piece was spicy baby salmon, which tasted pretty good because it had spicy mayo in it.
Next came another nicely marinated and seared tuna steak. I didn’t know tuna flesh could taste so rich and flavoursome. Still firm but with a soft bite.
The blow-torched warm ocean trout (with soy sauce) was what I think killed us with this meal. Incredibly oily, and as Superfly pointed out, you can actually taste the fumes of gas from the canister. Soft and oily gas-barbecued fish, no matter how fresh or good the cut, just did not agree with us.
The marinated kingfish bellywas really, really fresh. But I wished the marinade tasted less unctuously sweet.
We were served cooked oyster sushi for the finale. I thought it tasted alright, with creamy fresh oysters. I was slightly crestfallen that uni (sea urchin) did not feature in tonight’s selection because some other bloggers have been served that in the past.
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I wouldn’t say I’m an authority over sushi, but I only half-liked this meal. Superfly was good company and service was congenial. The ambience of the place was quite basic, and to some extent somewhat untidy behind the sushi counter, which did not feel very Japanese. As we were waiting for the bill, Superfly simply said “it’s good, but I’ve had better”. For me, it’s my first omakase, so I think I need to try the omakase at more places, hopefully in Japan at some point, before I can put this meal into perspective.
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Ooh, I like that these sushi pieces are interesting and beyond the standard offerings but still not overly complicated, and therefore about showcasing simple delicious flavours!
Also, yay for Carolyn! She brought you to us! :)
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Shira Nui!! Still, one of my fav Jap restaurants in Melbourne. BEST chawanmushi imho. Though, I've always thought that the lunch menu is actually quite affordable and worth your money? I don't know, never been there for dinner so can't really compare. Should really go back soon though! I miss this place it's been over a year. It's too bad the omakase menu wasn't as well thought out. But still, really enjoyed reading this post =)
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You know, going to Shira Nui was not what made me start blogging but was certainly a first step along that path. I read about it and drove all the long way there alone to eat udon noodle soup, so it was one of my first "food destinations".
Hate that gas smell – I know what you mean. I get it when my BBQ flames up too much because oil spills on the flames – ruins the taste.
There seems like a lot of cooked things – I think I would have been crying out for just some cool, plain sashimi.
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Oh hi, you are my savior. I have been looking for an amazing sushi place since I moved here. So far, everything has tasted the same: pre-packaged and cold. And depressing.
THIS looks right up my alley. Thank you!!
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Heh heh.. You've gotten me inside the photo.. That night, I was observing you taking the photos.. Anyway, having lived in Japan for quite a long period of time and have indulged in their cuisine all my life.. Shira Nui is the closest place you can get for authentic Japanese food in Melbourne.
I personally have had omakase at Shira Nui on a four times per week basis during my 5 years in Medical School.
That said, when you get to Japan one day, you'll be amazed at the quality of the cuts you'll get there… Also, Hiro-san (the boss) is the only Japanese chef in Australia qualified to handle fugu.. It is just a shame that imports of the fish is banned.
I've only been to Shira Nui once and was so impressed at the time I kept spruiking it up. I've often wondered if I would feel differently if I went there now and reading your post makes me think I just might. Oh but its such a hike!! And oh I'm so lazy!
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Bryan: methinks we should start planning a Japan foodieventure…
I do agree with the richness of the fish! I remember being so full after my meal there, even though it was over a year ago now….so bummed you didn't get anago!! Shira Nui was the only place where I had it where it was any good in Melbourne so far! Ah well…so the sushi hunt in Melbourne continues…
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I WANT TO JOIN ON JAPAN FOODIE ADVENTURE!!!! I Want I want I want…. hahaha
And that's it, the next invite I get, I'm dragging you along :)
I really want to visit this place before I head to Sydney…. :(
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Yes yes yes! It'll be so fun, methinks I-Hua wants to come too. Plan for next year?
Let's put the plan into works for next year. Mmmm I'm hungry for that trip already. ahahaa
She did indeed! Hey, have you ever wondered why they don't make dessert sushis? I wonder how sweet coconutty sticky rice would taste like with a swab of mango on top…
Yes yes, I've had lunch there twice and love having the chirashi sushi and sashimi rice. I still think it's a good restaurant, the chawanmushi is very good indeed, as is the black sesame ice cream (they come in cubes) mmm….
What a great story… you driving all the way out there to eat good Japanese food. Must've been such an adventure! we should do an omakase together someday. :)
You're welcome. Actually I like sushi of any kind, even the pre-packaged ones… so healthy! But this place did serve up interesting sushis.
That's insane, eating the omakase 4 times a week!! But it's good to hear that the place has authentic food, ie. the omakase I had was authentic! Really have to visit Japan soon…
Ha ha, don't let my post stop you. it's still a pretty good restaurant, I believe… Thoguh admittedly, I was most impressed on my first visit. Subsequent visits, not so much..
Oooo I'm game for that hunt, and weren't we meant to try Anago at Nobu at some point? ;) mmmm…
You can eat there when you're visiting Melb. :) Meanwhile time to find sushi places in Sydney so that I know where to go this Feb!